Wadi El Hitan

Site Description

Wadi El-Hitan is the most important site in the world to demonstrate one of the iconic changes that make up the record of life on Earth: the evolution of the whales. It portrays vividly their form and mode of life during their transition from land animals to a marine existence. It exceeds the values of other comparable sites in terms of the number, concentration and quality of its fossils, and their accessibility and setting in an attractive and protected landscape (World Heritage Committee, 2012). Iconic assemblage of fossilized skeletons of Archaeoceti (primitive whales documenting cetacean transition to marine life), sirenians and reptiles, as well as shark teeth from Gehannam Formation (40-41 million years ago). Additional whale skeletons from Birket Qarun Formation. 4 classes, 15 families and 25 genera of vertebrates represented. Largest concentration of intact skeletons worldwide. Qasr El-Sagha Formation (39-40 million years old), with fossilized marine and shallow marine invertebrate remains

Wadi El-Hitan (Valley of Whales), located within Wadi El-Rayan Protected Area, was designated in 2005 by UNESCO as the first Egyptian Natural World Heritage Site, for its contents of the 40-million-year-old whale skeletons, which is recording the story of whales’ evolution (from land to ocean-based animals). According to IUCN ‐ The World Conservation Union, Valley if Whales is the most significant site in the world to demonstrate the evolution of whales.
In 2018, the site was listed on the IUCN Green List of Protected and Conserved Areas, a global standard of best practice providing certification for areas that are effectively managed and fairly governed. To be on this list, sites must demonstrate good governance, sound design and planning, effective management, and positive conservation outcome

Justification for Inscription

Criterion (viii): Wadi El-Hitan is the most important site in the world to demonstrate one of the iconic changes that make up the record of life on Earth: the evolution of the whales. It portrays vividly their form and mode of life during their transition from land animals to a marine existence. It exceeds the values of other comparable sites in terms of the number, concentration and quality of its fossils, and their accessibility and setting in an attractive and protected landscape. It accords with key principles of the IUCN study on fossil World Heritage Sites, and represents significant values that are currently absent from the World Heritage List.

Visitor management and interpretation

Important efforts were undertaken to develop management and visitor infrastructure. As mentioned above, a new access track was built and footpaths were made in the site. Visitor facilities now also include a ticket office, cafeteria, camp site, lavatories and small interpretation center at the entry of the open air museum. Furthermore, several shaded rest points were built along the footpath, which house interpretive signs. Management infrastructure includes a police post and a permanent staff accommodation. In line with the recommendation at the time of inscription, efforts were undertaken to create infrastructure that limits intrusion and blends in the landscape. For this, architectural designs were developed prior to the constructions, and since then, architectural guidelines have been implemented as a policy for the site. These include a zoning of the area and guidelines on the design. The results is could be a model for other properties. At the parking area and ticketing office, there are several panels explaining the values of the property and also referring to the World Heritage status. Visitors can also buy a brochure which provides detailed information on the different fossils that can be seen in the open air museum. For visitors that do not want to buy this brochure, information panels along the visitor circuit provide basic information about the key aspects of the site (evolution, sedimentology, paleoecology, geology, paleontology research, wind and water erosion, modern whales). Other interpretative materials are available (brochures, video etc).

The story of whale evolution


The story of whale evolutionWadi Al-Hitan (Whale Valley) is a geological World Heritage site in Egypt that demonstrates an iconic evolutionary process in the record of life on Earth: the transition of whales from land-based to ocean-going mammals.

The fossil remains of the earliest, and now extinct, suborder of whales, Archaeoceti, can be found at Wadi Al-Hitan, Whale Valley, in Egypt’s Western Desert. The development of the whale as an ocean-going mammal from a prior life as a land-based species is one of the key stories of evolution represented by these fossils. This is the world’s most important site for demonstrating this stage of evolution. It beautifully depicts the shape and life of these whales as they change. The quantity, quality, and accessibility of such fossils, as well as their location in a beautiful and protected area, are all unique. The youngest archaeocetes, in the latter stages of losing their hind limbs, are depicted in Al-fossils. Hitan’s Other fossils found at the site allow researchers to reconstruct the surrounding environment and ecology at the time.

Pakicetus and other early whales were normal land creatures. They possessed big carnivorous teeth and lengthy skulls. They don’t resemble whales at all from the exterior. Their skulls, on the other hand, closely resemble those of live whales, especially in the ear area, which is encircled by a bony wall, and are unlike those of any other mammal. Often, seemingly insignificant characteristics are crucial in establishing a relationship between creatures that are highly specialised for their lifestyles (such as whales) and their less extreme-looking relatives.

Ambulocetus appears to have enjoyed a more aquatic existence than other early whales such as Indohyus and Pakicetus. Its legs are shorter, and its hands and feet have paddle-like enlargements. It also has a longer, more muscular tail. The data from stratigraphy — Ambulocetus’s fossils were discovered among strata that likely represented an old estuary — and oxygen isotopes in its bones also support the theory that Ambulocetus lived an aquatic life. Saltwater and freshwater have varying ratios of oxygen isotopes, and animals are what they eat and drink. This means that by researching the isotopes absorbed into an animal’s bones and teeth as it grew, we can learn about the type of water it drank. Ambulocetus drank both saltwater and freshwater, according to the isotopes, which fits perfectly with the hypothesis that these animals lived in estuaries or bays between freshwater and the open ocean.

Whales that emerged after Ambulocetus (Kutchicetus, for example) have even greater amounts of saltwater oxygen isotopes, indicating that they lived in nearshore marine settings and could drink saltwater like today’s whales. These creatures’ nostrils moved further back along the nose as they evolved. This process has persisted in living whales, which have a “blowhole” (nostrils) above their eyes on top of their heads.

Other alterations in these more aquatic whales reveal they are closely connected to today’s whales. The pelvis, for example, had developed to be considerably smaller and distinct from the backbone. This could be due to the increasing utilization of the entire vertebral column in locomotion, including the back and tail. If you watch videos of dolphins and other whales swimming, you’ll see that their tailfins are horizontal rather than vertical, like they are in fish. Instead of swimming back and forth like fish, they move their tails up and down. This is because whales originated from walking land mammals with backbones that naturally bent up and down rather than side to side. If you watch a dog run, you can plainly observe this. As it goes ahead, its spinal column undulates up and down in waves. When whales swim, they perform the same thing, demonstrating their ancient terrestrial heritage.
As whales began to swim by undulating the whole body, other changes in the skeleton allowed their limbs to be used more for steering than for paddling. Because the sequence of these whales’ tail vertebrae matches those of living dolphins and whales, it suggests that early whales, like Dorudon and Basilosaurus, did have tailfins. Such skeletal changes that accommodate an aquatic lifestyle are especially pronounced in basilosaurids, such as Dorudon. These ancient whales evolved over 40 million years ago. Their elbow joints were able to lock, allowing the forelimb to serve as a better control surface and resist the oncoming flow of water as the animal propelled itself forward. The hindlimbs of these animals were almost nonexistent. They were so tiny that many scientists think they served no effective function and may have even been internal to the body wall. Occasionally, we discover a living whale with the vestiges of tiny hindlimbs inside its body wall.

Wadi El-Hitan contains invaluable fossil remains of the earliest, and now extinct, the suborder of whales, Archaeoceti. These fossils represent one of the major stories of evolution: the emergence of the whale as an ocean-going mammal from a previous life as a land-based animal. It portrays vividly the form and life of these whales during their transition. The number, concentration, and quality of such fossils here are unique, as are their accessibility and setting in an attractive and protected landscape. The fossils of Wadi El-Hitan show the youngest archeocytes in the last stages of losing their hind limbs. Other fossil material in the site makes it possible to reconstruct the surrounding environmental and ecological conditions of the time.

 

Trip through time

40 million years of natural history is here!

Wadi El-Hitan is the only place in the world where the skeletons of families of archaic whales can be seen in their original geological and geographical setting of the shallow nutrient-rich bay of a sea of some 40 million years ago. The fossils and sediments of different periods and levels reveal many millions of years of life and are valuable indications of the paleontological conditions of Eocene vertebrate and invertebrate life and the evolution of these ancestors of modern whales. Remarkably, two species still had small hind limbs, feet, and toes. The quality, abundance, concentration, and state of preservation of these fossils are unequaled. It is marked by a rich content of both vertebrate and invertebrate fossils of more than 40 million years old and is practically an open-air museum in the desert. Many whale skeletons dating back to the Eocene Age are found on or near the surface, while thousands of nummulites of various kinds are scattered on the ground beside exposures containing macro-invertebrate fossils – a situation typical of the three formations found here (Gehannam, Birket Qarun and Qasr El-Sagha).

How to be a Paleontologist

Fossils

The presence of fossils of other early animals such as sharks, crocodiles, sawfish, turtles, and rays found at Wadi El-Hitan makes it possible to reconstruct the surrounding environmental and ecological conditions of the time, adding to its justification to be cited as a Heritage site. The first fossil skeletons of whales were discovered in the winter of 1902–03. In the 1980s interest in the site resumed as four-wheel drive vehicles became more readily available. The site contains an iconic assemblage of fossilized skeletons of Archaeoceti (primitive whales documenting cetacean transition to marine life), sirenians and reptiles, as well as shark teeth from Gehannam Formation (40–41 million years ago). The strata in Wadi El-Hitan belong to the Middle Eocene era and it contains an extensive mass of vertebrate fossils within 200 km2 (77 sq mi). Fossils are present in high numbers and often show an excellent quality of preservation. The two common whales are the large Basilosaurus, and the smaller (3- to 5-metre) Dorudon. At least two other species are known from rarer remains. The whales possess small hind limbs, that are not seen in modern whales, and a powerful skull with teeth similar to those of carnivorous land mammals. Other mammals are represented by the skeletons of three species of sirenia or sea cows.

Geology

The geology of the valley gives rise to the scenery, with wind and water erosion producing spectacular cliffs and buttes. The rocks present at Wadi El-Hitan are all Middle to Late Eocene in age and comprise three main rock units. The Gehannam Formation comprises open marine mudstones, which are largely present on the flatter ground to the East of the public park. The rock unit that contains most of the whale fossils is the Birket Qarun Formation. This comprises yellowish open marine sandstones that form most of the cliffs and buttes. The monotony of these sandstones is broken by a white layer full of well-preserved animal burrows (previously thought to be mangrove roots) and a layer of black mudstone above that. When the cliffs of the Birket Qarun Formation are followed to the East, they are replaced by Gehannam Formation mudstones, indicating a change in water depth from shallow to deeper in that direction. The tops of the higher cliffs are within the Qasr El-Sagha Formation, which comprises dark mudstones alternating with limestones full of shells and represents a lagoonal environment.

Geological History

For eons, the Tethys Sea reached far south of the existing Mediterranean. It gradually retreated north, depositing thick layers of sediments which became sandstone, limestone, and shale, seen at Wadi El-Hitan. Three Eocene formations are visible. The oldest is the Gehannam Formation (ca 40-41 million years old) consisting of white marly limestone and gypseous shale and yielding many skeletons of archaic whales (archaeocetes), sirenians (sea cows), shark teeth, turtles, and crocodilians. The middle unit, Birket Qarun Formation, consists of sandstone, clays, and hard limestone, which also yields whale skeletons. The site provides evidence of millions of years of coastal marine life. The presence of many baby skeletons suggests that the place was a shallow and nutrient-rich embayment frequented for calving. Since the fossils of different periods lie at different levels, they are valuable indicators of paleoecologic conditions, Eocene life, and the evolution of marine mammals.

Physical Features

The area is in the arid western desert on the westernmost edge of the great depression of Fayoum, Wadi El-Rayan west of the Nile. The deepest contours of the nearby Wadi El-Rayan are now occupied by two brackish lakes created in the 1970s from excess agricultural water channeled from nearby Lake Qarun in the Fayoum oasis which has enriched the previously meager wildlife of the area. The totally dry sand-covered Wadi El-Hitan 40km west exhibits wind-eroded pillars of rock surrounded by sand dunes, cliffs, and remnant hills of a low shale and limestone plateau.

Climate

The climate is typically Saharan, hot, and dry in summer, and mild with scanty rain in winter. At nearby Wadi El-Rayan, the annual average precipitation is 10.1mm, 40% falling in December. The average ambient relative humidity is 51%. The mean winter temperature is 13.7°C with an absolute minimum of –1.2°C; the mean summer temperature is 28.5°C with an absolute maximum of 48.4°C; the average diurnal range is 15.6°C. The direction of the wind for most of the year is from the north, varying from northwest to northeast. The Wadi is subject to both erosion and deposition which buries or exposes the skeletons.

Wildlife

Wadi El-Hitan is home to several species of desert plants, sand dunes, and about 15 types of wild mammals including the North African jackal, red fox, Egyptian mongoose, African wildcat, and Dorcas gazelle. Fennec foxes are the most seen mammal. Also, attracted by the lakes at Wadi El-Rayan are recorded 19 species of reptiles and 36 species of breeding birds.

Fauna

The present-day fauna is very sparse; mammals found in the Wadi El-Rayan Protected Area which might occasionally occur are north African jackal Canis aureus lupaster, red fox Vulpes aegyptiaca, Rüppell’s fox V. rueppeli, fennec fox Vulpes zerda, Egyptian mongoose Herpestes ichneumon, African wildcat Felis sylvestris lybica, and Dorcas gazelle Gazella Dorcas (VU). 19 reptiles and 36 breeding birds are recorded for the WRPA, mostly attracted by the lakes. Wadi El-Hitan is not separately noted but the desert species hoopoe lark Alaemon alaudipes, probably occurs.

Vegetation

There is very little vegetation in the Wadi El-Hitan. Tamarix nilotica is the most prominent shrub, accompanied by the halophytes Salsola imbricata spp.gaetula, Zygophyllum coccineum and Cornulaca monocantha.

Cultural Heritage

Wadi El-Hitan itself was probably always rather abandoned in historical times. However, the ancient Lake Moeris in the nearby Fayoum depression was large and the climate 8,500-4,000 years ago was wetter, so the abundant wildlife and surrounding fertile soils attracted continuous human habitation to the Fayoum area from Neolithic times to the present. It was also a major crossroad used for many centuries by travelers between the Nile Valley and the oases of the Western Desert. Remains of human settlements from the early Egyptian, Greek, and Roman eras are found there.

Education and Research

Open Air Museum, Fossil and Climate Change museum may represent the first of their own in the Middle East, Africa and may be in the whole world. The ground for continuous research are available to the national/international interests. A national attitude/school for studying vertebrate paleontology is generated and ongoing through the Mansoura University Vertebrate Paleontology Center in collaboration with the Egyptian Environmental Affairs Agency Nature Conservation Sector that is in fact represents the first binding cooperation between a governmental executive entity and a national university that currently generating young and middle career professionals in that kind of science which is not previously available on the national level. This is greatly enhanced and encouraged the scientific and applied science cooperation between Egypt and abroad.

Society

The ultimate goal to create business opportunities for local communities and national eco-tourism industry is in place through the Wadi El-Hitan World Heritage site (UNESCO) and IUCN green list site.

    Best Practices:
  • Applied Science for tourism: The outstanding exhibition of the fossils in an open-air museum in situ in addition to the Fossil and Climate Change Museum generate extended research, study, tourism and recreation opportunities in all national and international levels.
  • The use of Eco-Architecture concept to design the site infrastructure and visitor facilities make it one of the un-comparable eco-tourism and science destination not only in Egypt but also in the world.
  • A core permanent planning and implementation team (of 2 persons; scientific and management planning) make the site sustainable and dynamic through continuous adaptation to the national/international circumstances and ongoing operation effectiveness.
  • Green concepts are mostly applied either in the governance of the site or through using clean energy, waste management, architecture …etc.
  • Binding the top university education with the executive entities is a flagship program that experienced more than 10 years and still ongoing.
  • Experience transfer and spreading the best practices that bind science with society need creating business, financial and social opportunities throughout the national and regional levels is currently ongoing.